🔷🟠 Risk

Definition

• Probability
  • Risk is about a 's of success, not risk of injury. There should be no risk of injury while Climbing
  • Improbable, Remote, Occasional, Probable, Frequent
• Consequence of
  • Negligible, Marginal, Moderate, Critical, Catastrophic Risky Moves have a small margin for error.

WARNING

To minimize the Risk of Injury Climbers MUST avoid these Moves:

• using can .
• Climbing without gloves or tape can rip the skin on the back of hand and wrist.
• down to a can injure shoulder joints.

Examples of

Risk of

Low Risk

• on .

High Risk

• onto a
• on .
• a
• No possible

Levels of Probability

• [Improbable, Remote, Occasional, Probable, Frequent]

Examples Of Probability

MotoRisk.Probability1: Improbable

MotoRisk.Probability2: Remote

• from when all other Contacts are Stable.

Probability3: Occasional

Probability4: Probable

MotoRisk.Probability5: Frequent

“The first and last down jump”

MyKeysToRouteSetting(191)

Prediction

The inability to what a or part will feel like increases the Risk, such as when a

Consequence

NoRecovery Irreversible

Consequence1:Negligible

Consequence2: Low

Consequence3: Moderate

Consequence4: High

Consequence5: Extreme

• Fall

Quotes about Move Risk

“Low percentage movement”

“Do I go or not go”

“Risk worth the reward”,”Worth the risk”

“Not recoverable”,”there’s no return”,”Can’t undo this move”

“Riskier”,”Riskiest”,”Risky”,”Super risky”

“Sketchy move”,”Super sketchy”

Chance,

“Good chance”,”Bad chance”

Percent

“Low Percentage”

Probability

Safety

“Safer”,”Safer option”

Security

“Secure”, “Insecure”,”Precarious”,”Treacherous”, ”Not confident about this foot placement”

“Committing”,

“Delicate [Grip, FootPlacement]”,”Tenuous [Grip, FootPlacement]”

“Dicey”

“Implausible”,”Unlikely”

“No room for error”, “no margin for error”

“Uncertain”,”Unclear what to do”

“touch and go”\A maneuver in which an aircraft touches the ground as in landing and immediately takes off again

Advantage

ClimberHeight

• A tall Climber can reverse a Dyno which a shorter Climber couldn’t perform.
  • BypassRouteSection
    • ”Worth the risk”

Move Risk Factors

Accuracy

• ()InverselyProportionalTo(Risk)
• • into a is Risky.
  • Adding a increases the Risk that the Climber will miss the .

from being Gripped in and or .

• • CausedBy()

• about .
  • on (V15)
  • When the position of each finger on a matters.
  • Rotpunkt(2019)\Rotpunkt | Alex Megos and the Advent, the Agony and the Art of the Redpoint

BodyPosition

• Position of Climber in space. Particularly the position of a Climber’s CenterOfMass.
• BarnDoor

Irreversible

Definition(Irreversible)

• A movement which can’t be reversed.

Get BradGobright quote about FreeSolo in Eldorado Canyon in ReelRock.

Dyno

Irreversible.MotoRisk(Low)

• Movements which are reversible but with at least a moderate probability of resulting in a Fall.

BlindMove

ProprioceptiveMovement

• Definition(ProprioceptiveMovement)
  • A Movement which relies on Proprioception (sensing the position of one’s body). Without being able to use one’s eyes to guide the Movement.

MotoRisk.ProprioceptiveMovement(+)

• PaddleDyno
• HiddenFootSwap
• HiddenHandMatch
• HiddenBumpMovement
• HiddenRouteSurface

MotoRisk.ProprioceptiveMovement(-)

• HandSwap
  • Hands have high Proprioceptive ability, but it is possible that they could make MovementError, such as FingerOverlap or not NoSurfaceLeft.

No Recovery

Definition(NoRecovery)

• Climber can’t recover if MovementFailure happens. If HandSlip or FootSlip, or MissedTargetSurface happens, then Climber will not be able to recover control so that Climber doesn’t Fall.

• No option to Redirect

• Muscle can’t be used to regain control during Movement or after MovementFailure.

• If Climber has an AnteSubmovementFailure, then Climber won’t be able to perform RecoveryMovement.

• Not possible to muscle through a RouteSequenceError

  • HandMatch not possible, therefore HandSwap not possible
    • SmallHold, GripFatigue

• ThresholdPassed

  “Over the line”

  “Crossed the line”

  • RouteSurface FrictionLine RangeOfRouteAnglesLimitLine

  • GeometricalLimit

  “Cling on”, ”Stay on”

  “Past the point of no return”

• Barndoor

  • What is the PhysicsName for the threshold of a Barndoor, beyond which is a Fall?
  • Does Barndoor imply Fall. A Barndoor can be used for LateralDynamicMovement

• Dyno

  • Unable to return to the Holds used to during LaunchPhase of Dyno

Pain

RiskOfInjury

• TooManyAttempts

  “If I do this one more time then I’ll start to bleed”

  • SelfPreservation
  • SelfControl
  • LongGame

• PushMovementTooFar

  • JointRangeOfMotion
  • (HeelHook+RockUp)
    • Pete Whittaker
      • https://youtu.be/uUh5pAcEtGc?t=399

• Overload tissues

  • TendonTear
  • LigamentTear

Environment

WallType can modify MotoRisk or RouteRisk.

• SlabWall increases Risk of SlipMovement.
• NoShadowHold
• SmallHold
• SlightConcavityHold
• AlexHonnold on the FreeblastSlab in FreeSoloMovie.

LowRiskMovement

• Stand on (Ledge, Ground)
• Kneebar
  • ShallowKneebar is riskier than DeepKneebar.
• Sit
• JugGrip
  • JugGrip.Risk(+)
    • WetRouteSurface
  • JugGrip.Risk(-)
    • 2_JugGrip
• Standing
• Sitting
• RestPosition
• ShakeOut

HighRiskMovement

• FootSwap where supporting FootPosition must be maintained
  • FootCrossSwap
• SlotMovement
  • FootSlot
  • HandSlot
• PaddleDyno
• Multiple ClimberPart Smearing on SlabWall