Put(Plant)

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🔷🟠 Move Complexity ​

Definition ​

  • Consisting of many different and connected parts.
  • Interwoven, interrelated.
  • Continuum between Simple and Complex.
  • “Climbing is an incredibly demanding sport. Successful climbers combine strength, endurance, power, flexibility, mobility, and dexterity of both mind and body. Climbing requires a complex synergy between all of these abilities, relying on the successful integration of spatial awareness, balance, and coordination.”

Examples of Move Complexity ​

Low Move Complexity ​

High Move Complexity ​

Move Sequence ​

  • Thinking moves ahead. Ahead of CurrentMovement.
    • EventCount
      • Number of Events
    • SubmovementCount
      • Number of Submovements
    • PositionCount
      • Number of Positions
    • Analogy(Chess)

Advantage ​

  • Shorter Climbers often must use a more complex Beta than a TallClimber who can just Bypass the movement.
  • CognitiveBias
    • CurseOfKnowledge
      • The Routesetter who set the Route already knows all the beta to a climb may underestimate all the thought required to discover the beta.
  • HomeGymAdvantage
    • Climber already knows how the Hold feels when competing at their home gym.
      • FamiliarityEase

Acceleration ​

  • High Complexity
    • DynamicMovement
      • Redirection
      • ResonanceSwing
      • AbsorbMovement
  • MultipleMovementDirection
    • RedirectionMovement
  • Low Complexity
    • ConstantAcceleration
    • StaticMovement
  • (++)
    • Increase RedirectionCount
      • RedirectionMovementCount++

Alignment ​

  • AlignmentMovement is a NeuroMovement.

Quote about Alignment ​

  • “Between”

  • “Directly under SloperHold”

  • “Directly above”

  • “Stacked”

  • “Parallel”

  • “Perpendicular”

  • “Same (height, level, direction)”

  • “You need to stick your butt out”

  • Alignment of ForceDirections

    • OppositionMovement
      • CompressionMovement (ConvergentMovement)
        • Bicycle
        • PinchGrip
      • ExpansionMovement (DivergentMovement)
        • Kneebar
        • ReverseBicycle
        • 2_Gaston
        • Stemming
        • ArmArch
        • LegArch
        • BodyArch
      • (Layback = 2)

  • Align(ClimberPart)RelativeTo(OtherClimberPart)

    • Stacked
    • Align(Ankle, Knee, Hip, Spine, Shoulder)
    • NoHandsClimbing
      • SlackliningMovement

  • ConcentricAlignment

  • PlanarAlignment

  • ParallelAlignment

  • BisectLine

    • ExpansionMovement.EqualLoading
      • Stemming

  • Find center

  • Align(Climber)RelativeTo(Route)

    • To optimize Friction, since Friction is greatest when the applied force is perpendicular to RouteSurface.
    • Align(HorizontalMovement)
      • MovementNameList
        • Stemming
        • FrontLever
      • AlignmentError
        • BodySag on OverhangWall.
      • WeightDistribution
        • WeightShift
    • Align(VerticalMovement)
      • MovementNameList
        • HipsClose
        • HipsFar
          • SlabClimbing BodyPosition
            • “You need to stick your butt out”
        • ShouldersClose
        • ShouldersFar
    • NoHandsClimbing
      • SlackliningMovement
    • MovementNameList
      • PerpendicularHips
      • PerpendicularShoulders
      • ParallelHips
      • ParallelShoulders
      • Twistlock
        • PerpendicularHips
        • PerpendicularShoulders
      • Laybacking
      • BarnDoor
    • ConcentricAlignment
      • Velocity of AroundCornerMovement aligns with WallCorner.
      • SloperHoldGrip

Counterintuitive ​

  • More concepts are Counterintuitive to NoviceClimbers.
  • Expectation
  • PathOfLeastResistance
  • MovementError
    • Climbers who reach for the closest RouteSurface and use an erroneous sequence.
      • FarThenClose

Creativity ​

“You really have to be creative to find the easiest way” - AdamOndra\ReelRock13

Dexterity ​

  • Clipping(ArmCrossArm)Movement

  • (Dexterity.C)ProportionalTo(HandSubmovementCount, )

  • Clipping

  • ClimbingTool

  • ProtectionMovement

  • HandBump

  • ColdHands

    • Weather
      • AirTemperature

  • ArmPump.HandMovement

HiddenRouteSurface ​

  • Definition(HiddenRouteSurface)
  • Quote
  • MovementComplexity(+)
    • BlindHandSwap
    • BlindHandSwap.C(++)SmallSurface.C(++)MonoHold
    • BlindCatch
    • HiddenByClimber
      • Climbers often can’t see their feet when ChestClose is required, unless feet are to the side of Climber.
  • MovementComplexity(-)
    • FeelingForHold
      • WavingForHold
        • “Feel for it in Space”
          • Proprioception
      • SlidingForHold
        • Touch+Proprioception

Submovement ​

  • Definition(SubmovementCount)

    • The number of ClimberParts performing the same Movement or different Movement.

  • (Movement+Route)Complexity

    • A RouteComplexity.High has a higher MovementDensity than a RouteComplexity.Low.

  • (Complexity)ProportionalTo(SubmovementCount)

  • SwapMovement

    • Changing the ClimberPart which contacts a given RouteSurface.
      • FootSwap
        • FootSmearSwap
          • FootSmear beside TargetRouteSurface.
    • HandSwap
      • HandOverlapSwap
      • HandPianoSwap

  • Brachiation

  • CoordinationMovement

  • SimultaneousSubmovements in different directions.

    • MovementDirection
    • Number of MovementPlanes
    • Number of planes required to describe movement
    • The number of planes that a movement is performed in
    • Arms move independently of Legs.
    • Pat your head and rub your belly.
    • PogoLeg
    • (LegCompression+ArmExpansion)
    • (PullUp+LegKip)
    • CompressionMovement
    • ExpansionMovement
      • StemmingMovement

TooMuchIntensity ​

  • Definition(TooMuchIntensity)
  • Overshoot
    • ActualName(Parkour Jump to Railing).
      • VolumeJumping
    • SwingOff Dyno TargetSurface which isn’t a JugHold or DownPullHold.
    • Hop into Standing on a SmallHold on SlabWall.
    • Overshoot the TargetSurface or TargetBodyPosition, then need to redirect
  • Overgripping
    • Gripping the Hold with a force which is greater than the minimum force required to maintain StaticFriction between the Climber and RouteSurface.
    • Overgripping as a reaction to FearOfFalling

RedHerring ​

  • Definition(RedHerring)

  • Quote

    • “Don’t waste your time on that”

  • SkipHold

    • FarThenClose

  • RouteSurfaces which are tempting to use because they are easy to Load, but have a negative effect on the Climber’s advancement of RoutePosition.

  • A JugHold which puts the Climber OffRoute and perhaps to a RouteDeadEnd.

  • BotchedMovementSequence

  • Counterintuitive ApparentPathOfLeastResistanceDeception

  • OffRouteLine

  • OffMovementLine

TooManyOptions ​

  • Definition(TooManyOptions)
  • Quote
    • MovementComplexity
    • MovementComplexity(High)
    • (MovementComplexity)ProportionalTo(AlternativeMovementCount)
    • MovementComplexity(Low)
    • MovementComplexity(++)
    • MovementComplexity(--)

NoHandsClimbing ​

  • Definition(NoHandsClimbing)

  • MovementComplexity(+)

    • DynamicMovement
      • ArmSwing
        • ArmSwing Inertia
        • ArmAbsorb
        • The timing ArmSwing in multiple directions and speeds can be difficult to achieve.
        • ArmResonanceSwing Timing
          • Give Energy just before MovementLineReflection

  • RouteComplexity(+)

    • CornerWall is probably the MostComplexRouteType possible, although there is currently no video of it.
    • Any WallType besides SlabWall.
    • No ReferencePoint in space for BodyPositioning.
    • There are no definite spatial Positions to put your Arms.

MovementLine ​

  • MovementDistanceLine
  • MovementDisplacementLine
    • Trajectory
      • UpThenOver
      • ProjectileMotion
    • MotionCapture
    • JointLine
    • MovementDirection
      • MovementDirectionChange
      • MovementLineReflection
      • MovementLineRetrograde

Precision ​

  • Definition(Precision)

    • Quantitative
    • Exact
    • Delicate
    • Preciseness
    • Fineness
    • “Just right”
    • “Exactly where it needs to be”
    • Differentiation(Accuracy, Precision)

  • HighPrecision

    • SmallHold
    • DelicateMovement
      • SmallRangeOfLoadingAngles
        • LoadingAngle must be very close to Perpendicular to have enough NormalForce to maintain StaticFriction on SlipperySurface
    • Precision after DynamicMovement.

  • MovementComplexity(Low)

    • LowPrecision
    • LargeTargetHold

  • FineMotorControl

  • DelicateMovement

  • SmallMovement

    • FootSwap
    • HandSwap
    • WeightShift

  • PreciseMovementTiming

    • StaticMovement
    • DynamicMovement
      • CatchMovement
        • HandCatch
      • ReleaseMovement
        • HandRelease
      • Brachiation

  • DynamicPrecision

    • AccelerationPrecision
      • TooMuchAcceleration
    • MomentumPrecision

  • AlignmentMovementPrecision

    • RockOver
    • RockUp
    • DropKnee

  • MovementPosition

    • MovementPrecision+
      • This bridge should not be possible to climb(9:33)
        • Climbers must have HighMovementPrecision to Maintain LaybackPosition on a FeaturelessOutsideCornerWallRoute without Barndooring in either LeftDirection or RightDirection.
        • Maintain OptimalLoadingForceVector in HandMovement and FootMovement

Movement Repeatability ​

Quote ​

”The movement is so complex that it’s almost impossible to do it the same way twice in a row”

Rest ​

  • Neuro
    • Timing
      • Knowing when to rest
  • Resting often isn’t PassiveMovement. ShakeMovements are not PassiveMovement. Knowing how to get muscles to relax is a Factor.

Move Sequences ​

  • Notation

    • [,]
      • [StandUp, UnderclingHold]
        • MovementSequence[CrimpGrip, SpoonSmear, CrimpGrip]

  • Differentiate(Timing, Sequencing) Timing is often used erroneously instead of sequence.

  • Sequencing is ordered, but without Duration of Submovements

  • On(Event) = Sequence

    • On(ClimberPosition)
      • [RockOver, LegSquat]
    • On(Sensation)
      • On(FootContact)
        • Pressure of FootContacting and Loading Surface.
      • On(HandContact)
        • Touch Sensation when FingerContact TargetSurface.
    • On(Proprioception)
    • On(Stretch)
      • LegWhip into Wall when LegAnteriorMuscles are stretched to their MaximumMuscleLength, during LegBackSwing.

  • On(Time) = Timing

    • On(30second)\RestTime during a CompetitionRound
    • Timing can be used when HiddenClimberPosition or Position isn’t clear, such as when knowing when to HandRelease during Dyno.LaunchPhase.
    • ClimberPosition is often more clear to the Spectator than to the Climber on the Route.

Library released under MIT License.

Copyright © 2023–2024 Christopher Duncan