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Definition ​

Relationship between and ​

Routes determine the minimum intensity of a .

Climbers can perform a really intense move which is more intense than it needs to be.

  • Climbing with is more intense than with straight arms, both are performed on the same .

  • Holds that are far apart are HighIntensity due to the large distance between them. A Tall Climber can with LowIntensity while a ShortClimber must with HighIntensity for the same . Does this mean that Route Intensity is relative to climber? No, the is more intense but the Route Intensity stays the same. is more intense for ShortClimber than TallClimber.

  • Route Intensity is independent of MotoIntensity.

  • MotoIntensity depends on RouteIntensity.

Relationship between and ​

MoveComplexity increases NeuroIntensity

High MotoIntensity increases NeuroIntensity

  • Maximum Neuromuscular Recruitment for an explosive Dyno Move
  • Dealing with the Pain of ArmPump

Examples of Move Intensity ​

Low Move Intensity ​

High Move Intensity ​

Quote ​

  • “Intensive”

    “less intensive”

    “Intensive task”, “intensive training”, “60 minute intensive session”, “intensive endurance”

    “Physically intensive”, “Coordination-intensive”, “load-intensive”, “core-intensive”, “balance-intensive”, “kneebar-intensive”, “technique intensive”, “pinch-intensive”, “time-intensive”

“You need to be efficient”, “Strenuous”, ”Taxing”, ”Exhausting”, ”Effortful”, ”Tiring”

“Explode”, ”Erupt”, ”Hurl yourself”,

“Bear down”, ”Squeeze the hell out of it”, ”Dig in”, ”Death grip”

“Try hard”, ”Maximum effort”, ”all out”, ”Give it 110%”

“lock it in”, ”deep LockOff”

“throw”, ”huck”, ”launch”, “hurl yourself”, “huge throw”

“light touch”, ”gently”, “gingerly”, “delicately”

“finger intensive”, ”fingery”, “crimpy”,

“long reach”, ”reachy”, “big move”, “fully stretched out” “massive move”, “huge move”

Advantage ​

Ape Index ​

  • Definition(ApeIndex)
  • Ape Index Calculator: What's Your Ape Index? - 99Boulders
  • How exactly does ApeIndex help Climbers?
    • TamoaNarasaki

Climber Height ​

  • RouteSurfaceDisplacement

    • ClimberHeight is inversely proportional to RouteSurfaceDisplacement.Intensity.

  • Torque

    • Leverage
    • MomentArmLength
    • Torque.Intensity(--)
      • Decrease TorqueMovement.Intensity by decreasing MomentArmLength.
        • Get(Physics Equation)
        • (Torque.Intensity(--))ProportionalTo(MomentArmLength(--))

Leverage - CoreTension - FrontLever - Gainage

TallPersonBeta

  • LongArmReach

    • (LegLongReach.Intensity(--))ProportionalTo(LegLength(++))

  • LongArmReach

    • (ArmLongReach.Intensity(--))ProportionalTo(ArmLength(++))

ShortPersonBeta

  • ShortClimber can be able to Load IntermediateSurface when TallClimber can not.

  • SingleLegSquats are easier for ShortClimbers since they must travel less distance and the MomentArmLength of ShortClimbers’s limbs are smaller, therefore requiring less Torque, therefore less MuscleContractionEnergy than TallClimber performing a SingleLegSquat.

  • CompressionMovement

    • “Skip a Dyno with StaticMovement like ArmReach or StandUp”
      • Bypass(Dyno)With(StaticMovement(ArmReach,StandUp))
    • (Deadpoint)InsteadOf(Dyno)
      • (Deadpoint < Dyno)Intensity

ClimberMobility ​

  • Definition(ClimberMobility)

    • The RangeOfMotion of a Climber’s Joint.

  • As ClimberMobility increases ClimbIntensity decreases and ClimbComplexity increases.

    • Klimease(ClimberMobility(++) = Climb.I(--)C(++))

HipMobility

  • HipsClose

    • HipsClose.InsideCornerWall
    • LegHorizontalAdduction

  • HighFoot

  • FootAboveHipsPosition

  • Splits

  • MargoHayes

    • MargoHayes decreased the ClimbIntensity(--) of a RoutePart in La Rambla(9a+) with HeelHook above her head.

ShoulderMobility

  • ArmPosteriorReach

AnkleMobility

  • FootSmear when maximizing surface area contacting

    “Drop your Ankle”

Localized Intensity ​

Definition

  • Localized Intensity Localized to a particular ClimberPart or ClimberPartGroup.

Quote ​

“{ClimberPart} intensive” Dynamic Query for TagExtraction from Strings and Quotes.

“Leg intensive”

“Shouldery”

”Fingery”, “Finger intensive”

  • ShoulderMovement, FingerMovement

“Friction dependant”

  • SmearMovement

ClimberPart.Arm.MovementIntensity(High) ​

  • ArmPump

ClimberPart.Leg.MovementIntensity(High) ​

  • LegPump is the result of movements which are Leg.MovementIntensity(High) SingleLegSquat

ClimberPart.MovementIntensity(--) ​

MovementIntensity(Low) ​

MovementIntensity(++) ​

  • Increase intensity to a ClimberPart

EnvironmentIntensity affects MotoIntensity ​

  • OverhangWall localizes Intensity to Forearms.
  • SlabWall localizes Intensity to LowerLeg.

Endurance ​

  • Definition(Endurance)

    • The ability of a given muscle to exert force, consistently and repetitively, over a period of time

  • Persistence

  • PowerEndurance

    • Definition(PowerEndurance)
      • Many PowerMovements without Rest.
      • See Definition(Power)

Endurance.I-C+

  • Pacing
  • “Rest whenever possible”
  • “Slow and steady wins the race”

ArmPump

  • ArmPump increases proportional to Time spent Gripping.

    • GripTime
      • DeadhangTraining increases GripTime and decreases RiskOfArmPump
        • Movement.RI(--)

  • FlashPump

    • WarmUpError
    • FlashPump can occur when Climber doesn’t properly WarmUp by Climbing TooIntense TooSoon.

  • LacticAcid

  • GripStrength

Energy ​

  • Definition(Energy)

    • Measurement
      • Units
        • Joules

  • EnergyTransformation

    • EnergyLeak
      • Definition(EnergyLeak)
        • A leak happens when movement generated in one ClimberPart is supposed to be transferred to another ClimberPart, but some of the energy is lost along the way.
      • MovementError
        • AbsorbMovement
          • EccentricContraction to store ElasticEnergy in Muscles
      • Sag
        • OverhangWall
      • PelvicFloor not Activated.
      • AirResistance
      • KineticFriction
        • BodySmear
        • BodySlide along SlabWall can cause MovementError(MovementTooShort) during FallOver.FlightPhase.
          • Not traveling with enough momentum.
      • Sound
        • ContactSlap
        • WallKick
        • Thud
        • Hit

  • GravitationalPotentialEnergy

    • OverloadContactSurface
      • Overcome StaticFriction.
      • DownDyno
      • DownClimb
      • FallOver.FootStab
    • MovementSpeed
    • MovementAcceleration

  • ElasticEnergy

  • KineticEnergy

    • Climbers should never be expected to evaluate a KinematicEquation with numbers. Instead Climber would benefit from understanding the relationships between Movement, Position and Time, through the rearrangement of KinematicFormulas.
    • KinematicEquations
    • KinematicFormulas
      • Rearrange Formula

Gravity ​

  • Definition(Gravity)
    • The Force that pulls Climber and Route towards the center of the Earth.
    • Measurement
      • Units
        • Newton
        • Acceleration

MovementIntensity(+) ​

  • Gravity affects VerticalMovements more than HorizontalMovements
  • UpMovement
    • VerticalDeadpoint, VerticalDyno
    • Gravity affects the Movements which have a large VerticalComponent(Up), since gravity directly opposes UpMovement
    • ProjectileMotion

MovementIntensity(-) ​

  • DownMovement
    • FallOver
    • DropMovement
      • BodyDrop
      • ArmDrop
      • LegDrop
      • DropInto

KinematicPhysics ​

  • Definition(KinematicPhysics)

  • ProjectileMotion

    • Movements on an OverhangWall use ProjectileMotion, Climbers must pull into the wall to counteract gravity pulling Climbers away from the wall

  • MovementNameList

    • UpThenOver
    • LateralDyno.LegPressUp(VerticalWall, SlabWall)
    • LateralDeadpoint.LegPressUp(VerticalWall, SlabWall)

  • InThenUp

    • Dyno.PullIntoWall(OverhangWall)
    • LateralDeadpoint.PullIntoWall(OverhangWall)

  • InThenOver

    • Dyno.PullIntoWall(OverhangWall)
    • Deadpoint.PullIntoWall(OverhangWall)

  • Velocity

    • (Speed+Direction)

  • Acceleration

    • ((Velocity/Time)+Direction)
    • Climber must attain a high acceleration or must decelerate
    • “Generate from Hold (Hold, position)”, “Generate off of (Hold, position)”
    • LaunchPhase of Dyno
    • AbsorbMovement

  • Mass

    • Definition(Mass)
      • A fundamental measure of the amount of matter in the object.
      • The mass of a Climber affects the required acceleration.
      • Units
        • Kilogram

DynamicsPhysics ​

  • Definition(DynamicsPhysics)
  • Inertia\Newton’s First Law
  • Momentum
  • Force
    • Definition(Force)
      • Newton’s Second Law Acceleration of an object is dependent upon two variables - the net force acting upon the object and the mass of the object
    • CentripetalForce
      • Mass
      • Velocity
      • Radius
        • ArmLength
      • MovementNameList
        • RotationMovement
        • Barndoor on Dyno.HandCatch

MovementSize ​

  • (GripIntensity)ProportionalTo(PinchGrip.Width)
  • Intensity is proportional to the DisplacementMagnitude between RouteSurfaces.
  • MovementSize increases the Intensity since more force must be generated to move further.
  • MovementNameList
    • IronCross
    • DynamicMovement

Pain ​

  • ArmPump

  • LegPump

  • PainfulPosition

    • Contortion
    • PressurePain
      • Kneebar
      • JamMovement

  • PainTolerance

  • SkinPain

    • Kneebar without a Kneepad

  • InjuryPain

    • AcuteInjuryPain
    • OveruseInjuryPain
      • RawFingerpadPain
      • JointInjuryPain
        • CrimpGrip

  • On(Pain)

    • Vocalization

  • AnticipationOfPain

    • Dread

Power ​

  • Definition(Power)
    • Units
      • Watt
        • Rate at which Energy is transferred.

Quote ​

“Raw power”

  • RequiredPower

    • Minimum required power.

  • PowerResistance

    • The North Face Presents: "Return of the Sleepwalker" (9A/v17) (First Ascent)

      • (0:57)\”Sleepwalker in itself is a power resistance climb. Every move is roughly the same difficulty. Going from lower, it’s just going to be a whole other game. The low start adds seven moves of around V13. A very powerful style straight into another power resistance problem with no rest, making this full this a power resistant beast.

    • MovementNameList

      • Expansion.2_Undercling.1PadHold
      • MaintainMovement
      • CompressionMovement
      • ActiveKneebar

  • PowerEndurance

    • Definition(PowerEndurance)
      • Many PowerMovements without Rest.
      • See(Definition(Power))

  • Overpowered

    • Definition(Overpowered)
      • Too much power.
    • TooHigh
      • When Climber Falls into a Hold they may overload the maximum StaticFrictionForce into KineticFriction, into a SlideMovement or SlipMovement which leads to Fall.
      • FallInto.FootStab when Wall isn’t close to perpendicular to Leg on Contact
    • TooFar
    • Overshoot
    • TooMuch
    • Overgripping

  • Underpowered

    • Definition(Underpowered)
      • Not enough power.
    • (Intensity+Complexity)
    • TooShort
    • Undershoot
      • SpeedClimbing
      • Are there any StaticMovements in SpeedClimbing?
      • Jump
      • DynamicMovement
        • Dyno

MovementTypeFrequency ​

  • Definition(MovementTypeFrequency)

  • Many instances of movement type along route, which can localize MuscleFatigue to particular ClimberPart or ClimberPartGroup.

    • Laybacking
    • Jamming
    • CrimpGrip
      • 2 CrimpGrip
      • RouteSequence[CrimpGrips] in a row is greater RouteIntensity than CrimpGrip

Rest ​

Quote ​

“There’s a rest just a couple bolts up”

  • ClimberPartRestingCount

    • Definition(ClimberPartRestingCount)
      • The number of ClimberParts which are Resting.
    • (ClimberPartRestingCount)InverselyProportionalTo(Intensity)
    • The more ClimberParts Resting the lower the Intensity

  • Observation of Climber in need of Rest

    • “How can you tell if a Climber needs a rest?”(Coaching, Routesetting)
      • Learning how to set PowerEndurance, what is the maximum that a Climber can climb between RestPosition? Find their limit.
        • PreventKneebar
          • AdamOndra frequently finds Kneebars during Competitions which many other competitors don’t find.
    • ChickenWingArm when Arm requires a Rest.
    • (ElvisLeg, SewingMachineLeg) when Leg requires a Rest.
    • ArmPump when Arm requires a Rest
    • “Out of breath”

  • ArmRest

  • RestTime

    • How much RestTime is needed on the Route?
      • Seconds, Minutes
    • How much RestTime is needed between (Route, Movement) attempts?
      • Minutes, Hours, Days
    • Seconds
      • RestPosition
      • Resting between attempts in a Competition.
      • “Time to catch your breath”
    • Minutes
      • Climber can rest in with a KneebarRest.
      • Climbers get to Rest when they swap positions with their Belayer.
    • Hours
      • MultipitchRoute
        • Ledge
        • BelayStation
        • Portaledge
      • Time between Sessions
      • Projecting
    • Days
      • RestDay
      • Tent
      • Climbers must know how to Heal themselves on RestDays.
      • Time between Sessions
      • ChrisSharma said that he needed a couple days Rest between attempts on Alasha(5.15) because it was so “fingery”

  • Unrelenting

    • Not yielding in strength, severity, or determination
    • Endurance
    • An unrelenting Route increases the need for Rest.
    • RouteRICscore.Description
    • “It doesn’t ease up”
    • RouteCrescendo

  • RestPosition

    • RouteIntensity(-)
    • RestingClimberPartCount\The number of ClimberParts which are - Resting during a RestPosition.
    • Sitting
    • Standing on Ground
    • KneebarRest
    • StemmingRest
      • ArmRest
      • LegRest

  • NoRest

    • Definition(NoRest)
      • No RestPosition available.
      • Not able to ShakeOut ArmPump or LegPump
      • Not able to RechalkHand

  • ConstantCoreTension

    • Breathing
      • Being unable to breathe greatly increases the RouteIntensity.
        • “Out of breath”
    • Quote

    “Nowhere on the Route to shake out”

    • NoRestPosition
      • RouteIntensity(+)
      • OverhangWall
    • NoMentalRest
      • DecisionFatigue

Strength ​

  • Definition(Strength)
    • MuscleContraction

Quote ​

  • GripStrength

  • LegStrength

  • MaintainPosition

  • Power

  • MuscleSize

  • MuscleContraction

  • Differentiation(AbsoluteStrength, RelativeStrength)

    • Relative strength refers to the ability to produce maximal force relative to your bodyweight. This differs from absolute strength which is the ability to produce maximum force irrespective of body weight.

  • GripStrength

    • Definition(GripStrength)
    • Quote
      • Tenacity
    • MovementIntensity(+)
      • PinchGrip
      • CrimpGrip
    • MovementIntensity(-)
      • JugGrip
      • RungGrip
    • RouteIntensity(+)
      • RepeatedGripType
      • “This route is full of pinches”
        • TufaRoute
    • RouteIntensity(-)
      • MovementNameList
        • PinchGrip on OverhangWall.
        • CrimpGrip
        • SmallHold
          • ThumbPinchGrip
          • Crimp2FingerGrip
        • MonoHold
          • Crimp1FingerGrip
          • Climbing The World's Hardest Crack Boulder (Kraken 8B)
          • CobraCrack CruxMovement.OneFingerJam

  • AbsoluteStrength

    • PinchGripStrength

  • RelativeStrength

    • The Climber’s ability to Move their own weight.
    • MovementNameList
      • FrontLever
      • OneArmPullUp
      • PressUp
      • Deadhang
      • PullUp
      • MuscleUp
      • SingleLegSquat

Vocalization ​

  • Yell, Scream, Shout, Hiss, Screech, Howl, Wail
  • Scream
    • Fear
    • Fall\ScreamerFall
  • Pain
    • “Screaming in Pain”;”Scream through the pain”
  • ConstantCoreTension
    • Exhale to ContractCore
  • ExampleClimber

Work ​

  • Definition(Work)

    • Work, in physics, measures the energy transfer that occurs when an object is moved over a distance by an external force at least part of which is applied in the direction of the displacement. If the force is constant, work may be computed by multiplying the length of the path by the component of the force acting along the path.
    • No work is done unless the object is displaced in some way and there is a component of the force along the path over which the object is moved. Holding a heavy object stationary does not transfer energy to it, because there is no displacement.

  • Units

    • Joule

  • PositiveWork

    • TransferEnergy into System

  • NegativeWork

    • Transfer Energy out of System

Library released under MIT License.

Copyright © 2023–2024 Christopher Duncan